Whatever the reason, Da Hong Pao has become a dim sum parlor that now hits its marks more often than it misses them. The restaurant has not yet reached the heights of Hollywood East Cafe, which remains the gold standard, or Vinh Kee, whose XO turnip cake may be my single favorite dim sum plate in the entire Washington region. But Da Hong Pao has wormed its way into the conversation of dim sum establishments that, when running on all cylinders, prove that the line between commerce and the culinary arts is very fine indeed..

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